Munich, Germany Dec 19-20 2007


Here comes my fav city-Munchen, the Bavarian heartland of lions and Monks.This city floored me with all the Nazi history, subtle memorials to brave Bavarians that opposed the Nazis, the beer gardens, friendly people- justabout everything abut Munchen is fascinating.So I decided to go for the free tour...Our guide was Travis...the best tour guide Ive seen so far...

Here are places where I visited...

1. The Glockenspiel- When you see flocks of tourists looking up at this building (which I later on discovered to be Neues Rathaus-New Town Hall), you know you're staring at the Glockenspeil. Glockenspeil is a mechanicalclock located in Marien Platz (named after a column of Virgin Mary). It is the 4th largest in Europe with 43 bells that rings at 11, 12 and 5pm..And thrice a day, a play/act sort of things takes place. Two events are depicted...first one depicting a wedding scene of Renata von Lothringen and Wilhelm V. The wedding actually happened in Marien Platz in 1568. Secondevent is the Cooper's Dance where the beer barrel makers dance in happinessat the end of plague. This dance tradition continues to this day by realcoopers!I would say this whole show is overrated, but Marien Platz is a great placeto hang out...especially during Dec...with merry Christmas Markets and Christmas Punsch and Gluhwine flowing in abundance!

 

2. Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady)- This is the green, twin onion shaped dome towers. This church was built in only 20 yrs adn rumor is the devil helped build it! There is the devil's foot print in the church...how could I NOT believe the story?

Deal is...devil happened to be flying over Munich, sees this church being constructed, gets mad, decides to stop by to destruct it. As he enters the church, it is dark and gloomy, which makes him happier (devil=darkness analogy). So he makes a deal with the architect that if no more windows are added, he will help build it faster. Architect agrees, signs the Devil's contract...which upon breaching will cost the architect his soul! (Seen the movie 'Bedazzled'?) So 20 yrs later, the devil comes into Munich to check the church out...to his dismay and anger finds the church flooded with sunlight and people praying peacefully. He demands the architect his soul because he broke the contract. Which is when the architect says "Devil, I haven't added anymore windows... When you visited here 20yrs ago, the tall columns along the church hid the windows behind and you assumed otherwise"At which the Devil stomps his foot at his loss and takes off.So ppl, that's the footprint...and rumor is the footprint was the architect's signature! I somehow like the Devil story better...so much more believable.The church itself is very bare in architecture compared to other European churches.There's a great view of the city upon climbing to the top of the dome(costs abt 2-3 euros).

3. Hofbräuhause- This is a beer house with waiters dressed in Bavarian clothes and the 'oompah oompah' music being played all day. Beer is served in big heavy 1 liter steins for about 6.80 euros (as of Dec 2007). All you need to know is " Eine mass, bitte".On a serious note, the famous Nazi beer hall putsch (Nov 8, 1923) took place at the Hofbrauhaus. Very interesting story on how Hitler tried to take control of Bavaria and Germany opposing the democratic govt., failed miserably and arrested. Everyone assumed the end of Hitler's politicalaspirations-surprisingly, nearly 10 yrs after this, Hitler became Germany's dictator! This was the first public Nazi uprising. I happened to walk down the streets where the protests and shooting (16 Nazis and 3 Bavarian policeofficers were killed). There used to be a plaque with the names of 16 dead Nazis, and Bavarians were forced to salute everytime they passed; if not,they were beaten until they saluted. (Today, the there is no plaque butmerely an indentation). Anti-Nazis started to avoid the street and went around an alley (also known as Dodger's Alley). Present day, a yellow/golden line runs along the length of this alley, as a subtle memorial to those who opposed the Nazis. Also is a plaque in the ground as a memorial to the dead Bavarian officers.The ceilings of Hofbrauhaus were painted with Swastikas. Apparently, it was impossible to remove the swastikas without damaging the ceiling. Hence, now the Bavarian flag with blue and white checkered pattern is painted over the swastikas.

Hofbrauhaus-Hitler, a great orator delivered a  powerful  gave a speech from one of these rooms!

4. Viktualienmarkt = victuals market. This is a huge marketplace, an area of 22,000 square metres. There's all kinds of exotic fruits, vegetables,meat, spices wine etc. We stopped here for lunch and to my agony, did notreally find anything vegetarian. I yet again had to eat the damn pretzel (I love pretzels and Bavarian pretzels are huge...but been eating that 2 daysin a row!)

There are many other museums, churches and streets that hold historic significance. Maximilian street is where the rich folks roll-you can findall designer brand here. One of the cafes along this street sells coffee foa whopping 12 euros! Apparently, it s a question of prestige to be seen here!

There is the world famous Bavarian state opera house. The Odeonplatz, Residentzplatz, the new and old town halls (Rathaus), Royal residence are among others are many places to visit.

Residenzplatz

My next stop is Madrid, Spain...I had to travel abt 26 hrs to get there..not complaining, the scenery was beautiful. The train across the through south of France....along the ocean. It was serene, small towns with white washed houses and the blue ocean for backyard. What a pretty sight!

European Vacation-Dec 2007- Berlin, Salzburg

First city-Berlin, Germany!

This past December, I had a chance to vacation in Europe. Such interesting, historic, beautiful cities….adjectives and photos do no justice! I visited Germany, Austria, Italy, France and Spain.

Few observations—
1. Germany is the place to and Munich is the city be!
2. European men are hot! Especially the French…
3. Everyone seems to be fashionably dressed, looks real fake after a while.
4. Eiffel Tower is way too rated, but Paris is beautiful.

Berlin Dec 16-17, 2007
Berlin, capital and biggest city in Germany, was also the capital of the Third Reich and Hitler established his office here.
My first time in Germany, my first city…well, technically, Frankfurt is where I landed at on Dec 15, and took the overnight train to Berlin. I had reserved a hostel via http://www.hostelworld.com/. Directions to and from the Berlin Hauptbahnhof (main train station) are explicitly given on their website. I stayed at Citystay Mitte Hostel, close to Hackerscher Markt station. Hostel/room was comfortable, though I wasn’t too happy with the bathrooms and the shower rooms. The hostel had info on tours- walking or biking (not available in winter). I decided to go with a walking tour for 10 euros. I later on find out about FREE walking tours, in few major cities across Europe.
Check it out- http://www.neweuropetours.eu/.

I visited the following.
· Museum Island- The hostel is close to Museuminsel (Museum Island) and Berlin Dome (5 min by foot).The Museuminsel has five museums built between 1824 and 1930. I visited the Egyptian Museum (which proudly houses the Bust of Nefertiti) and the world famous Pergamon Museum, which houses the original-size, reconstructed Pergamon Altar, the Ishtar Gate of Babylon, and the market gate of Miletus, consisting of parts taken from the original excavation sites (Ref-Wikipedia).

· Berlin Dome

· Bebelplatz- Bebelplatz is where the Nazi 'Book-burning' occured on May 10, 1933. About 20,000 books written by Jewish authors, socialists were burnt down. A glass window on the ground, through which empty white book shelves can be seen, which serves as a Memorial, in the center of Bebelplatz. The world famous National Opera House is also located in Bebelplatz.

Bebel platz-Berlin square was to be a center for the arts and science. It’s often remembered, however, for Nazi book burning. May 10, 1933- the Nazi minister for propaganda and public enlightenment, Joseph Goebbels, organized a nationwide book burning, with more than 20,000 books by Jews, Communists, and Pacifists burned on a pyre in the middle of the Bebelplatz.

· The Berlin Wall- The wall was built on Aug 13, 1961, dividing Soviet occupied East and western allies occupied West Germany. Scaling the wall wasn’t all that difficult, but crossing the ‘death strip’ was. Death Strip is the 100 yard space in between the original 96 mile wall and a parallel wall that was constructed in 1962 to discourage border crossing. The wall was torn down on Nov 9, 1989. The remnants of the wall is located on Bernauer Strasse and Neiderkirchnerstrasse, close to the Reichstag.
FYI-The wall didn’t run ‘through’ Berlin but around it!

Berlin Wall-The Berlin Wall was erected in 1961 to divide Berlin into East and West. It was 160km long, but now only bits remain. The longest remaining portion is the brightly painted East Side Gallery

· Checkpoint Charlie- Before the Wall fell; this was the only border crossing point across east or west Germany for German (GDR) officials, visitors, foreigners. American and Soviet forces were stationed right across each other at this point. Today, the checkpoint houses a museum, again with great photographs detailing the Wall.

Checkpoint Charlie became a symbol of the Cold War, representing the separation of east and west, and — for some East Germans — a gateway to freedom

Hitler’s Bunker- I was very surprised to be here-seemed like I accidentally stumbled upon the ground above the bunker. There are no signs telling you where you are. Apparently, a small patch of grass/call it a garden, is the ground above which Hitler killed himself on April 30th, 1945! This small piece of land is surrounded by a parking lot and number of apartments. Yes, that insignificant! Clearly, Berlin wants to forget the dark past.

Here lies the infamous Funhrerbunker; now a bunch of apartments, above and around the Funhrerbunker.

· Pariser Platz and The Brandenburger Tor- Pariser Platz is located just along the Branderburger Tor. Berlin is synonymous with the ‘Brandernburg Gate’ which was the entrance into Berlin in the Nazi era. The gate houses (on top) a statue of goddess of peace riding a 4 horsed chariot in victory. The ‘peace’ part of the statue changed when in 1814, the olive wreath around her hair was exchanged for the Iron Cross to become the goddess of victory!

· The Reichstag- The German Parliament….very crowded if you want to go to the top. I would rather spend my time elsewhere than wait in line.

The Berliner Dom or Berlin Cathedral is a Lutheran cathedral

· Holocaust Memorial – This was designed by architect Peter Eisenman and engineer Buro Happold. This memorial is just rows and rows of concrete block, seems like. There are no names, no details. There is an exhibition in the basement though, which gives more credence to the cold, grey cement blocks.

· Former Red Light District, now a major shopping district (Friedrichstraße)- This street was the most happening in the ‘20s, lined with bars, night clubs and brothels. Come the Nazis, all bars and brothels were closed down. Its fun to walk down this street, with beautiful Christmas decorations.

Former Red Light district, now jumping with clubs and bars

· Former SS HQ- Most of the buildings that the SS used as HQ was destroyed during bombings by the Allied forces early 1945. But the underground cellars where political prisoners were tortured have been excavated. These cellars are now a memorial and a museum (called Topography of Terror) with great photographic exhibits describing the lives under Nazi rule.
Berlin is so historic…Id like to visit again and spend more time exploring.


Salzburg, Austria Dec 18 2007

One word-BEAUTIFUL

Salzburg is so unbelievably breathtaking. It had snowed in and was terribly cold (and I have lived in Wisconsin!). Salzburg is surrounded by the Kapuziner Mountain, Monk Mountain and Gais Mountain. Walk along the river Salzach is spectacular, taking in the snowed in mountains, the cathedrals, fortress and the cafes dotting the small streets.I took the train from Berlin to Salzburg (change in Munich). Very small city, can be covered by foot in a day or so. I decided to go on a bus toursince it was below freezing.

I visited the Schloss Mirabell (Mirabell Palace) with a pretty Mirabell Garden. Today, the palace is the office of the mayor and town council.

The towering Hohensalzburg Fortress is one of the well preserved and largest castles in central Europe. This fortress was constructed in 1077! Archbishops used it as a temporary residence as well as to hold prisoners!Access to the fortress is via a funicular rail ride up.

Hohensalzburg Fortress-Hohensalzburg Fortress sits on Mönchsberg Mountain. This fortress not only dominates the River Salzach, but the whole city. Commencing work on the building in 1077, it wasn't finished until 1681.

The funicular ride leading up to the fortress.

View of theAltstadt (old city) and the Salzach River valley is spectacular from the top.

The musical 'Sound of Music' was filmed here as well (most of it). I did see the residence of Captain Georg von Trapp and the huge lake behind thehouse! The lake is man-made, one of the fancies of one of the Archbishops.

And Salzburg happens to be the birthplace of the famous composer, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. I was dying to see Mozart's home, the street. Here it was,a third floor apartment in a bright yellow ochre building on Getreidegasse.I noticed most residential buildings in the old town are really old, fromthe 17/18th century. The facade tells you when it was built and when it wasrenovated.Mozart's home is now a museum (costs about 6 euros). Inside, there areplenty of photographs depicting Mozart's life, childhood. Furniture form the 17th century, Mozart's piano, clavicord, costumes, letters Mozart wrote from Vienna (he left Salzburg for Vienna in his adulthood) feature in the house.

Next stop was Scholl Hellbrunn (Hellbrunn Palace). Built by Archbishop Markus Sittikus in the 1600s, it served as his summer home. One of his fancies was wetting his guests with water with 'trick' fountains planted inthe palace grounds.. He himself did not like to get wet. The grounds also feature a zoo.

Schloss Hellbrunn (Hellbrunn Palace)-Dating back to the 17th Century, this palace was built as a home for Prince-Archbishop Markus Sittikus. Some of the palace's biggest attractions are the trick fountains in the gardens and the city zoo.

I am glad I made a stop here in Salzburg. Next city if Munich, about 1.5 hr train ride.

P.S I found Salzburg to be way too expensive-from the hostels to the price of coffee.

Serbia and Kosovo- one and the same?

East European countries, especially the former Soviet blocs have always intrigued me. I have been sort of following the news about former communist countries and their current progress (towards an EU membership?) in the democratic world that we exist (or are made to believe we exist?)

I have been keeping tabs on the upcoming Serbian election and the fate of Kosovo. So far, seems like Kosovo will be declared independent-might I say, USA wants it like that?

Here is a blast from the past, people…

Both Serbs and Albanians have tried to gain power over Kosovo throughout the 20^th century. The former soviet regime-Yugoslavia deemed Kosovo an autonomous province

of Serbia in 1974. After the death of Josip Broz Tito in the ‘80s, the then Yugoslav President, struggle for independence has been an issue of contention (and violence).

Kosovo has been UN administered since 1999. NATO bombings drove out the Serbian army in 1999. This was a bloody year, when the Serbian army puppets of the Slobodan Milosevic, then president, exercised an ethnic cleansing of Kosovo Albanians. Several fled to Albania, Macedonia and Montenegro. When NATO intervened with continuous bombings, Milosevic withdrew his troops and about 750,000 Albanian refugees returned home and about 100,000 Serbians fled Kosovo, in fear of retaliation.

Milosevic is held responsible and is indicted (1999) for human genocide by the international war crimes tribunal in The Hague. He died in March 2006 due to heart failure without a verdict.

Current…

Serbians consider Kosovo historically significant. They do not want to let go of their cultural ties, yet. A meeting between Serbian and Kosovan leaders (about Kosovo’s status) in November 2007 ended in failure. In the upcoming Presidential election in Serbia, Kosovo is the most significant issue. Of the 9 candidates, 2 of them are strong contenders—

Tomislav Nikolic

• He is the ‘stand-in’ for the Serbian Radical party leader- Vojislav Seselj, who is on trial at The Hague.
• A radical nationalist, leaning more towards Russia’s support.
• Opposses Kosovo’s independence, threatening to cut off ties with any country or organization that recognizes an independent Kosovo.

Boris Tadic

• Current President, pro-european.
• Opposses Kosovo’s independence but wants to accelerate Serbia’s path to EU membership (if that requires Kosovo’s freedom, so be it).

EU membership-the future?

EU membership is seen as a forward step to prosperity, modernity and democracy-more so for the former communist countries. Not quite so for the Serbian, so far. Ironically, Serbian Prime Minister, Vojislav Kostunica has warned the West and EU about severing ties and not signing the ‘stability and association’ past, regarded as the first step towards EU membership.

Really, who is at the receiving end here? Will Russia guide Serbia towards democracy (I want to LOL here) and modernity (improve living standards, decrease unemployment rate, put an end to ethnic violence??)

USA and most of Europe support Kosovan independence. But Russia, Cyprus, Slovakia, Spain, Greece and Romania remain stubborn opposers.

Serbia a long way to go if integration into EU is what is desired. Kosovo remains a prime issue. Also, Serbia has been unsuccessful in the capture of war criminals Radovan Karadzic and Ratko Mladic (a whole another can of worms I don’t want to un-can here).

Finally…

All that I discussed above is mostly not my opinion. I’m not Serbian or Albanian, hell, I’m not even European! I don’t know what is right for Kosovo or how ethnic Albanians or Kosovan Serbs feel. In reality I’m not even sure or convinced if EU membership or declaring Kosovo independent is the start in the right direction for Serbian citizens.

Will Russia be the ally Serbia thinks she is? Urging Serbia towards EU membership simply a power trip and gratification for EU?

The Presidential election, 2^nd week of February will decide Serbia’s future.

Please do leave your comments, as radical or hardcore it may be.

Benazir dead!

she deaad! damnnnnnn must have seen it coming