Munich, Germany Dec 19-20 2007


Here comes my fav city-Munchen, the Bavarian heartland of lions and Monks.This city floored me with all the Nazi history, subtle memorials to brave Bavarians that opposed the Nazis, the beer gardens, friendly people- justabout everything abut Munchen is fascinating.So I decided to go for the free tour...Our guide was Travis...the best tour guide Ive seen so far...

Here are places where I visited...

1. The Glockenspiel- When you see flocks of tourists looking up at this building (which I later on discovered to be Neues Rathaus-New Town Hall), you know you're staring at the Glockenspeil. Glockenspeil is a mechanicalclock located in Marien Platz (named after a column of Virgin Mary). It is the 4th largest in Europe with 43 bells that rings at 11, 12 and 5pm..And thrice a day, a play/act sort of things takes place. Two events are depicted...first one depicting a wedding scene of Renata von Lothringen and Wilhelm V. The wedding actually happened in Marien Platz in 1568. Secondevent is the Cooper's Dance where the beer barrel makers dance in happinessat the end of plague. This dance tradition continues to this day by realcoopers!I would say this whole show is overrated, but Marien Platz is a great placeto hang out...especially during Dec...with merry Christmas Markets and Christmas Punsch and Gluhwine flowing in abundance!

 

2. Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady)- This is the green, twin onion shaped dome towers. This church was built in only 20 yrs adn rumor is the devil helped build it! There is the devil's foot print in the church...how could I NOT believe the story?

Deal is...devil happened to be flying over Munich, sees this church being constructed, gets mad, decides to stop by to destruct it. As he enters the church, it is dark and gloomy, which makes him happier (devil=darkness analogy). So he makes a deal with the architect that if no more windows are added, he will help build it faster. Architect agrees, signs the Devil's contract...which upon breaching will cost the architect his soul! (Seen the movie 'Bedazzled'?) So 20 yrs later, the devil comes into Munich to check the church out...to his dismay and anger finds the church flooded with sunlight and people praying peacefully. He demands the architect his soul because he broke the contract. Which is when the architect says "Devil, I haven't added anymore windows... When you visited here 20yrs ago, the tall columns along the church hid the windows behind and you assumed otherwise"At which the Devil stomps his foot at his loss and takes off.So ppl, that's the footprint...and rumor is the footprint was the architect's signature! I somehow like the Devil story better...so much more believable.The church itself is very bare in architecture compared to other European churches.There's a great view of the city upon climbing to the top of the dome(costs abt 2-3 euros).

3. Hofbräuhause- This is a beer house with waiters dressed in Bavarian clothes and the 'oompah oompah' music being played all day. Beer is served in big heavy 1 liter steins for about 6.80 euros (as of Dec 2007). All you need to know is " Eine mass, bitte".On a serious note, the famous Nazi beer hall putsch (Nov 8, 1923) took place at the Hofbrauhaus. Very interesting story on how Hitler tried to take control of Bavaria and Germany opposing the democratic govt., failed miserably and arrested. Everyone assumed the end of Hitler's politicalaspirations-surprisingly, nearly 10 yrs after this, Hitler became Germany's dictator! This was the first public Nazi uprising. I happened to walk down the streets where the protests and shooting (16 Nazis and 3 Bavarian policeofficers were killed). There used to be a plaque with the names of 16 dead Nazis, and Bavarians were forced to salute everytime they passed; if not,they were beaten until they saluted. (Today, the there is no plaque butmerely an indentation). Anti-Nazis started to avoid the street and went around an alley (also known as Dodger's Alley). Present day, a yellow/golden line runs along the length of this alley, as a subtle memorial to those who opposed the Nazis. Also is a plaque in the ground as a memorial to the dead Bavarian officers.The ceilings of Hofbrauhaus were painted with Swastikas. Apparently, it was impossible to remove the swastikas without damaging the ceiling. Hence, now the Bavarian flag with blue and white checkered pattern is painted over the swastikas.

Hofbrauhaus-Hitler, a great orator delivered a  powerful  gave a speech from one of these rooms!

4. Viktualienmarkt = victuals market. This is a huge marketplace, an area of 22,000 square metres. There's all kinds of exotic fruits, vegetables,meat, spices wine etc. We stopped here for lunch and to my agony, did notreally find anything vegetarian. I yet again had to eat the damn pretzel (I love pretzels and Bavarian pretzels are huge...but been eating that 2 daysin a row!)

There are many other museums, churches and streets that hold historic significance. Maximilian street is where the rich folks roll-you can findall designer brand here. One of the cafes along this street sells coffee foa whopping 12 euros! Apparently, it s a question of prestige to be seen here!

There is the world famous Bavarian state opera house. The Odeonplatz, Residentzplatz, the new and old town halls (Rathaus), Royal residence are among others are many places to visit.

Residenzplatz

My next stop is Madrid, Spain...I had to travel abt 26 hrs to get there..not complaining, the scenery was beautiful. The train across the through south of France....along the ocean. It was serene, small towns with white washed houses and the blue ocean for backyard. What a pretty sight!